Showing posts with label Free Crochet Pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Free Crochet Pattern. Show all posts
Crochet Sweater Scarf
Pattern
Pattern
Design process
I was asked to recreate a sweater scarf posted in a crochet group, so y'all already know that I took the challenge lol. So I searched the internet for a similar look and found just what I needed, then I made a swatch and measured myself then BOOM I had a sweater scarf thingy lol. After writing the 1st pattern I realized I definitely needed to re-write it and change it up a bit, so i ended up using a formula to get a more accurate fit, changed the stitch pattern, and I also cut down on the sewing buy adding the sleeves to the foundation chain, and now that it's complete I'm here to show you how to make your own crochet sweater scarf!
*pictured* 3 sweater wrap scarf's made with 3
different weight 4 yarns, 2 different hooks, 3 different
st patterns and different starting chain #'s. that proves
that you can make this sweater anyway you want
IT'S FOOL PROOF
DISCLAIMER When I was asked to recreate this garment I wasn't exactly sure what it was or how to wear it, so when I tried it on I soon realized that it wasn't the most comfortable thing to wear LOL, however it is very cute... BUT HOW THE HECK ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO MOVE YOUR ARMS WITHOUT THE WHOLE TOP MOVING WITH THEM LOL!! idk and I may never know, but what I do know is I took a lot of cute pics wearing it.
ABBREVIATIONS MATERIALS
CH- chain stitch weight 4 yarn (I USED BIG TWIST
SC- single crochet VALUE) color way: medium rose
SC BLO -single crochet back
loop only 5.5 mm AND 6 mm hook
HDC- half double crochet 2 stitch markers
ST- stitch scissors
measuring tape
* I used 1 1/2 skeins of big twist for this pattern, BUT the pattern on my youtube channel I used 2 whole skeins of the A.C. Moore yarn so idk how much you will need. But I suggest that you get at least 2 skeins for XS-S, and 3 skeins for M-L XL-2XL but that is just a guess from my end. *
Gauge Size/Dimensions
4 stitches = 1" XS-S = around 5 feet
2 rows =1" MED-LG = around 6 feet
Half Double Crochet
9 rows - 4" XL-2XL = around 7 feet
10 sts - 4"
* I suggest that you gauge swatch if you're trying to get the exact fit that you're looking for based on this pattern *
Notes
- Length adjustments can be made at the beginning when we are making the foundation chain as well as during the pattern by how many rows you add or subtract...
- when adding or subtracting chains you should do so in multiples of 4 ( so for example if I wanted to make the foundation chain one inch longer I would add four stitches, if I wanted to shorten the foundation chain one inch I would subtract four stitches)
- Chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch ( it's the turning chain )
- the formula I used to get each size was:
inches for the sleeves 21 stitches for each sleeve OR you can make the
sleeves longer by adding stitches in multiples of 3
BUST - 2 inches = Y
Y x 2 = X
X + 42 stitches for the sleeves or you can add more inches to the
sleeves
* Start with the 6 mm hook for foundation chain*
* SC BLO WITH THE 5.5 MM HOOK TO CREATE A DIFFERENCE IN THE SLEEVE AND "CUFFS" ONLY WHEN YOU BEGIN SC BLO *
* I HAVE A REFRENCE VIDEO FOR HOW TO PUT THIS THING ON LOL I HOPE IT HELPS*
Thank you !!!
Your tension is going to determine the fit that you get, if you tend to crochet loose then I recommend that you use a smaller size hook, and if you crochet very tight then I suggest that you use a larger size hook. Also using stretchy yarn helps a lot with the overall fit and comfortability.
Pattern
video link here:
* Start with the 6 mm hook for foundation chain*
Chain 186 (210,246) , count 21 sts on each end of your chain, mark them off with st markers.
* SC BLO WITH THE 5.5 MM HOOK TO CREATE A DIFFERENCE IN THE SLEEVE AND "CUFFS" ONLY WHEN YOU BEGIN SC BLO *
R1: Chain 1 SC in the next st and across 20 sts until you reach the first st
marker ( 21 sts )
marker ( 21 sts )
* I USED THE 6 MM HOOK FOR THE HDC STS *
HDC across 144 (168,204) * between the st markers*
when you reach the next st marker SC into the last 21 sts of the row.
this is what you should have at this point
R2: Chain 1, turn and SC BLO into the next 21 sts
HDC across 144(168,204) when you reach the st marker SC BLO across the next 21 sts.
R3: REPEAT ROW TWO FOR THE REST OF THE PATTERN
XS-S 24-28 rows
M-L 32-36 rows
XL-2X 40-44 rows
*everyone is different sizes, and has different preferences so you can do as few or as many rows as you want to get the length to cover your bust and or stomach area . I like mine in a more cropped style so I stopped at 21 rows but I think 28 rows is a good amount of rows for sizes XS-S. If you're doing bigger sizes and you want to do less rows to make it cropped then subtract 3 ( -3 ) from the number of rows I provided above. Example: 24-28 rows ( 24-3 = 21 rows ) ( 28-3 = 25 rows ).
here's what you should have when you're finished... basically a long scarf LOL!!
SEAMING
don't cut your yarn so you can SC the cuffs and sleeve together without having to rejoin the yarn. stitch mark the two sides of the sleeve together and SC across all 21 SC BLO sts, then continue to single crochet across 10 more sts , ( you can do however many sts you want to do it's up to you, but don't stitch more then 4-6 inches ) after you do the other side fasten off, weave in all ends. Now you're finished ....you just have to put it on !!
* I HAVE A REFRENCE VIDEO FOR HOW TO PUT THIS THING ON LOL I HOPE IT HELPS*
Thank you !!!
North Carolina, USA
December 21, 2019 • crochet scarf, crochet sweater scarf, crochet wrap scarf, crochet wrap sweater, cute crochet patterns, easy crochet patterns, Free Crochet Pattern, trendy crochet patterns
Crochet Sweater Scarf
Pattern
Pattern
Design process
I was asked to recreate a sweater scarf posted in a crochet group, so y'all already know that I took the challenge lol. So I searched the internet for a similar look and found just what I needed, then I made a swatch and measured myself then BOOM I had a sweater scarf thingy lol. After writing the 1st pattern I realized I definitely needed to re-write it and change it up a bit, so i ended up using a formula to get a more accurate fit, changed the stitch pattern, and I also cut down on the sewing buy adding the sleeves to the foundation chain, and now that it's complete I'm here to show you how to make your own crochet sweater scarf!
*pictured* 3 sweater wrap scarf's made with 3
different weight 4 yarns, 2 different hooks, 3 different
st patterns and different starting chain #'s. that proves
that you can make this sweater anyway you want
IT'S FOOL PROOF
DISCLAIMER When I was asked to recreate this garment I wasn't exactly sure what it was or how to wear it, so when I tried it on I soon realized that it wasn't the most comfortable thing to wear LOL, however it is very cute... BUT HOW THE HECK ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO MOVE YOUR ARMS WITHOUT THE WHOLE TOP MOVING WITH THEM LOL!! idk and I may never know, but what I do know is I took a lot of cute pics wearing it.
ABBREVIATIONS MATERIALS
CH- chain stitch weight 4 yarn (I USED BIG TWIST
SC- single crochet VALUE) color way: medium rose
SC BLO -single crochet back
loop only 5.5 mm AND 6 mm hook
HDC- half double crochet 2 stitch markers
ST- stitch scissors
measuring tape
* I used 1 1/2 skeins of big twist for this pattern, BUT the pattern on my youtube channel I used 2 whole skeins of the A.C. Moore yarn so idk how much you will need. But I suggest that you get at least 2 skeins for XS-S, and 3 skeins for M-L XL-2XL but that is just a guess from my end. *
Gauge Size/Dimensions
4 stitches = 1" XS-S = around 5 feet
2 rows =1" MED-LG = around 6 feet
Half Double Crochet
9 rows - 4" XL-2XL = around 7 feet
10 sts - 4"
* I suggest that you gauge swatch if you're trying to get the exact fit that you're looking for based on this pattern *
Notes
- Length adjustments can be made at the beginning when we are making the foundation chain as well as during the pattern by how many rows you add or subtract...
- when adding or subtracting chains you should do so in multiples of 4 ( so for example if I wanted to make the foundation chain one inch longer I would add four stitches, if I wanted to shorten the foundation chain one inch I would subtract four stitches)
- Chain 1 does NOT count as a stitch ( it's the turning chain )
- the formula I used to get each size was:
inches for the sleeves 21 stitches for each sleeve OR you can make the
sleeves longer by adding stitches in multiples of 3
BUST - 2 inches = Y
Y x 2 = X
X + 42 stitches for the sleeves or you can add more inches to the
sleeves
* Start with the 6 mm hook for foundation chain*
* SC BLO WITH THE 5.5 MM HOOK TO CREATE A DIFFERENCE IN THE SLEEVE AND "CUFFS" ONLY WHEN YOU BEGIN SC BLO *
* I HAVE A REFRENCE VIDEO FOR HOW TO PUT THIS THING ON LOL I HOPE IT HELPS*
Thank you !!!
Your tension is going to determine the fit that you get, if you tend to crochet loose then I recommend that you use a smaller size hook, and if you crochet very tight then I suggest that you use a larger size hook. Also using stretchy yarn helps a lot with the overall fit and comfortability.
Pattern
video link here:
* Start with the 6 mm hook for foundation chain*
Chain 186 (210,246) , count 21 sts on each end of your chain, mark them off with st markers.
* SC BLO WITH THE 5.5 MM HOOK TO CREATE A DIFFERENCE IN THE SLEEVE AND "CUFFS" ONLY WHEN YOU BEGIN SC BLO *
R1: Chain 1 SC in the next st and across 20 sts until you reach the first st
marker ( 21 sts )
marker ( 21 sts )
* I USED THE 6 MM HOOK FOR THE HDC STS *
HDC across 144 (168,204) * between the st markers*
when you reach the next st marker SC into the last 21 sts of the row.
this is what you should have at this point
R2: Chain 1, turn and SC BLO into the next 21 sts
HDC across 144(168,204) when you reach the st marker SC BLO across the next 21 sts.
R3: REPEAT ROW TWO FOR THE REST OF THE PATTERN
XS-S 24-28 rows
M-L 32-36 rows
XL-2X 40-44 rows
*everyone is different sizes, and has different preferences so you can do as few or as many rows as you want to get the length to cover your bust and or stomach area . I like mine in a more cropped style so I stopped at 21 rows but I think 28 rows is a good amount of rows for sizes XS-S. If you're doing bigger sizes and you want to do less rows to make it cropped then subtract 3 ( -3 ) from the number of rows I provided above. Example: 24-28 rows ( 24-3 = 21 rows ) ( 28-3 = 25 rows ).
here's what you should have when you're finished... basically a long scarf LOL!!
SEAMING
don't cut your yarn so you can SC the cuffs and sleeve together without having to rejoin the yarn. stitch mark the two sides of the sleeve together and SC across all 21 SC BLO sts, then continue to single crochet across 10 more sts , ( you can do however many sts you want to do it's up to you, but don't stitch more then 4-6 inches ) after you do the other side fasten off, weave in all ends. Now you're finished ....you just have to put it on !!
* I HAVE A REFRENCE VIDEO FOR HOW TO PUT THIS THING ON LOL I HOPE IT HELPS*
Thank you !!!
Netted Beach Bottoms
Materials needed:
(I used 1 skein making a size small) LARGER SIZES 2+ skeins
-medium 4 yarn ( I used Caron Simply Soft in the color white )
-5 mm hook
-stitch markers
-scissors
-measuring tape ( optional )
SIZES:
XS-S-M-L-XL-2XL
I haven't had pattern testers
test this so proceed at your own risk
THIS IS MAINLY A GUIDELINE for you to create
your own crochet beach bottoms
stitch pattern multiple :
even number + 1
finished hip size 34", 36", 40", 44", 48" 53"
finished waist 24" 26-28", 30-32", 34" 38" 42-44"
Notes:
-inc - increase
-CH3 doesn't count as a st
-sl st in 3rd CH of CH3 at the end of every row
-to increase DC CH2 DC in same st (CH2 counts as 2 st increase)
( stitches shown below )
IMPORTANT INFO
- ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left = MEANS IF YOU HAVE 4 DC sts from the previous row then you need to make 4 chains to accommodate for those 4 DC spaces
Actual pattern stitches
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4,
vst in next st* REP from * to * until end
of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining
sts left, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
Swatch Gauge of the stitch pattern I am using
I highly encourage you to make one and measure it
yourself to make these pants in any size
1.To make the gauge swatch CH 15 TO START
2. DC across 15 sts, CH3, turn
3. sk st, *vst in next, ch4 sk4 sts, vst in next st** ( rep from * to ** for 5 rows that will give you a 4" swatch
part 1
Pattern:
foundation row: loosely chain 96 ( 106, 122 ,136 ,152 ,172 )
step two, sl st making a loop, CH3
ROW 1: DC across every st 96 106 122 136 152 172
you could also use a number in between your waist & hip measurements to create a wider waist band to fit wider hips( ex. WAIST 26" HIP 36"= )31 would be the number I used & multiply that # by st gauge ( 31x4= 124 CHS ) but your increase rows would be different from the ones I provided.
when you do your increase rows
use the regular stitch pattern just
*ADD 2CHS BETWEEN A VST* ( DC CH2 DC in same st }
XS-S-M
increase rows are highlighted
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW 2: inc 3x ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP
from * to * until end of row, ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4: inc 3x
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6:inc 3x
ROW7: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8:inc 3x
ROW9: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left, from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10:inc 3x
ROW11: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12:inc 3x
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: inc 2x
move on to part 2
L-XL
( Increase rows are highlighted )
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW2: inc 3X ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4: inc 3X
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6: inc 3X
ROW7: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8: inc 3X
ROW9: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10: inc 2X
ROW11: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12: Inc 2X
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: Inc 2X
ROW15: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW16: Inc 2X
move on to part 2
2X
( Increase Rows are highlighted )
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW2: Inc 3X ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4:Inc 3X
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6: Inc 3X
ROW7: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8: Inc 3X
ROW9: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10: Inc 3X
ROW11: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12: Inc 3X
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: Inc 2X
ROW15: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW16: Inc 2X
move on to part 2
PART 2
*ALL SIZES cut off yarn, weave in ends, make sure your work is WS out before you move on to the crotch part
this is what you should have at this point after
increase rows complete!! you should have approximately 14-16
rows that are approximately 7"- 8" in length according to my math.
now it's time to make the crotch area
find the middle of the front and back of your work.
place st markers in those sts.
I measured about 2 1/2 " wide for the crotch.
place 2 st markers in the end of the vst on both sides of the middle marked st
Reconnect yarn and crochet across 1 vst CH4 , vst CH4, 1 vst for 5 rows
you can adjust the amount of rows to your liking
slip stitch across the crochet to connect it to the other side of the work
Reconnect yarn in a place where you want the seam to not be shown ( I placed mine on the inner thigh area so it will run down the inside of my leg as normal seams do)
proceed with the pattern starting with a CH3
( when you see a vst + ch4 sk4 from the previous row then place
another vst + ch4 sk4 continuing the pattern around the leg hole )
you can see on the left side I have continued the pattern and the right side hasn't been touched yet
( sorry this is the best way for me to explain this part )
Netted crochet bottoms video tutorial ( to show how these bottoms are constructed )
for a regular 30" inseam you need 42 rows on each leg
for a long/tall 32 " inseam you need 48 rows on each leg
cut off yarn and weave in all your ends
take your waist # in inches, multiply by 4 + 40 ( ex. 26" x 4 = 104 + 40 CHS) so I would chain about 148 CHS to use as a drawstring around the waist of my bottoms.
WE ARE FINISHED !!! I hope you all loved this pattern. I Would love to see everyones work so call me, beep me if you wanna reach me 🤟🏾
June 6, 2019 • Free Crochet Pattern, Netted Beach Bottoms
Netted Beach Bottoms
Materials needed:
(I used 1 skein making a size small) LARGER SIZES 2+ skeins
-medium 4 yarn ( I used Caron Simply Soft in the color white )
-5 mm hook
-stitch markers
-scissors
-measuring tape ( optional )
SIZES:
XS-S-M-L-XL-2XL
I haven't had pattern testers
test this so proceed at your own risk
THIS IS MAINLY A GUIDELINE for you to create
your own crochet beach bottoms
stitch pattern multiple :
even number + 1
finished hip size 34", 36", 40", 44", 48" 53"
finished waist 24" 26-28", 30-32", 34" 38" 42-44"
Notes:
-inc - increase
-CH3 doesn't count as a st
-sl st in 3rd CH of CH3 at the end of every row
-to increase DC CH2 DC in same st (CH2 counts as 2 st increase)
( stitches shown below )
IMPORTANT INFO
- ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left = MEANS IF YOU HAVE 4 DC sts from the previous row then you need to make 4 chains to accommodate for those 4 DC spaces
Actual pattern stitches
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4,
vst in next st* REP from * to * until end
of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining
sts left, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
Swatch Gauge of the stitch pattern I am using
I highly encourage you to make one and measure it
yourself to make these pants in any size
1.To make the gauge swatch CH 15 TO START
2. DC across 15 sts, CH3, turn
3. sk st, *vst in next, ch4 sk4 sts, vst in next st** ( rep from * to ** for 5 rows that will give you a 4" swatch
part 1
Pattern:
foundation row: loosely chain 96 ( 106, 122 ,136 ,152 ,172 )
step two, sl st making a loop, CH3
ROW 1: DC across every st 96 106 122 136 152 172
you could also use a number in between your waist & hip measurements to create a wider waist band to fit wider hips( ex. WAIST 26" HIP 36"= )31 would be the number I used & multiply that # by st gauge ( 31x4= 124 CHS ) but your increase rows would be different from the ones I provided.
when you do your increase rows
use the regular stitch pattern just
*ADD 2CHS BETWEEN A VST* ( DC CH2 DC in same st }
XS-S-M
increase rows are highlighted
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW 2: inc 3x ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP
from * to * until end of row, ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4: inc 3x
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6:inc 3x
ROW7: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8:inc 3x
ROW9: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left, from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10:inc 3x
ROW11: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12:inc 3x
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: inc 2x
move on to part 2
L-XL
( Increase rows are highlighted )
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW2: inc 3X ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4: inc 3X
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6: inc 3X
ROW7: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8: inc 3X
ROW9: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10: inc 2X
ROW11: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12: Inc 2X
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: Inc 2X
ROW15: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW16: Inc 2X
move on to part 2
2X
( Increase Rows are highlighted )
to start row 2 :
CH3, sk 1 st, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * while adding increase chs throughout the row
ROW2: Inc 3X ( place 3 vst inc randomly in this row) rep every inc row
ROW3: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW4:Inc 3X
ROW5: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW6: Inc 3X
ROW7: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW8: Inc 3X
ROW9: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW10: Inc 3X
ROW11: CH3,vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW12: Inc 3X
ROW13: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW14: Inc 2X
ROW15: CH3, vst in next st, *CH 4 sk 4, vst in next st* REP from * to * until end of row,ch enough chs to accommodate for remaining sts left from previous row, sl st in CH3 at beginning of row
ROW16: Inc 2X
move on to part 2
PART 2
*ALL SIZES cut off yarn, weave in ends, make sure your work is WS out before you move on to the crotch part
this is what you should have at this point after
increase rows complete!! you should have approximately 14-16
rows that are approximately 7"- 8" in length according to my math.
now it's time to make the crotch area
find the middle of the front and back of your work.
place st markers in those sts.
I measured about 2 1/2 " wide for the crotch.
place 2 st markers in the end of the vst on both sides of the middle marked st
Reconnect yarn and crochet across 1 vst CH4 , vst CH4, 1 vst for 5 rows
you can adjust the amount of rows to your liking
slip stitch across the crochet to connect it to the other side of the work
Reconnect yarn in a place where you want the seam to not be shown ( I placed mine on the inner thigh area so it will run down the inside of my leg as normal seams do)
proceed with the pattern starting with a CH3
( when you see a vst + ch4 sk4 from the previous row then place
another vst + ch4 sk4 continuing the pattern around the leg hole )
you can see on the left side I have continued the pattern and the right side hasn't been touched yet
( sorry this is the best way for me to explain this part )
Netted crochet bottoms video tutorial ( to show how these bottoms are constructed )
for a regular 30" inseam you need 42 rows on each leg
for a long/tall 32 " inseam you need 48 rows on each leg
cut off yarn and weave in all your ends
take your waist # in inches, multiply by 4 + 40 ( ex. 26" x 4 = 104 + 40 CHS) so I would chain about 148 CHS to use as a drawstring around the waist of my bottoms.
WE ARE FINISHED !!! I hope you all loved this pattern. I Would love to see everyones work so call me, beep me if you wanna reach me 🤟🏾
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