Easy Adjustable Cardigan
Hey guy's !! so today i'm showing you how i made this super easy adjustable length cardigan. It has a open stitch pattern called the " sedge stitch" and it's really breath able and certainly NOT meant to keep you warn outside in the winter weather, unless you live on the west coast i guess lol. Anyway this cardigan is made in one whole piece and just needs to be stitched up the sides. SUPER EASY.
Design Process
I get a lot of comments on my YouTube channel asking why did i make 2 panels instead of crocheting in a round & stuff like that, which is fine but i just don't enjoy crocheting in rounds so in an attempt to compromise & give my subscribers what they ask for, i decided to use the technique of an all-in-one cardigan with minimal sewing. And i LOVE it lol its so easy you can even use whatever stitch pattern you would like, just make sure you make a stitch gauge to get the right size. Basically we will be creating a back panel, 2 front panels & 2 sleeve panels on both sides, then we will stitch up the open sides and ass pockets for extra cuteness.
Sizing
XS- bust 30"
S- bust 34"
M- bust 38"
L- bust 42"
XL- bust 46"
length is COMPLETELY up to you just make sure the 2 front panels match the back panel in length & width. I made my cardigan about 24-25 inches long.
* this cardigan is designed to be very fitted to the body, but it can also be made with a bit of ease & you can add ease by adding 2-4 inches to your original measurement and creating your pattern from there. exampe: 16 inches + 2 inches (ease) = 18 inches x 3= 54 chs to start the back panel
Stitch gauge
my gauge of HDC was = 3 sts per inch
so i used 3 as my # to multiply to find my size, i also used the https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/woman-size
size chart to find my size shoulder to shoulder measurement , which was 14 1/2 to 15 inches so i multiplied 15 by 3 and got 45 . So my foundation chain to start the back panel was 45 chs.
sedge stitch pattern
Multiple of 3+1
3. hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and all the way to the end of the ch
4. ch 1, place 1 hdc & 1 dc into the 1st st
5.skip 2 sts , place 1 sc, 1hdc, 1 dc into the next st
repeat step # 5 until there are 2 sts left
6. skip next st and sc into last st
7. ch1 ,turn repeat step #4 - 6 for the complete pattern ( you can do as many rows as you like) i stopped when my back panel reached 24-25 inches in length.
this is what you should have so far, a panel as wide and long as you want it to be
Next we need to find the middle of our work by folding the panel length wise and place a st marker in the very middle (make sure you count your sts so your front panels will be even)
you will now need to continue the sedge stitch from the top of your back panel where your yarn should still be connected across to where the st marker is placed, repeat that row for as many rows as you would like i did around 46-47 rows for each front panel and i also had about 8 "sedge stitch clusters" measuring 8 inches across
XS 7-8 '' panels
S 7-8 '' panels
M 8-9 '' panels
L 9 - 10'' panels
XL 10- 11'' panels
this is pretty much what you should have now if you successfully completed a back panel and two front panels
Sleeves
lay out the front panels and back panel so we can work on the sleeve panels
find the shoulder seam ( where you started making the front panel) and place a st marker there, then measure from the shoulder seam to where your armhole will stop
XS - 6 INCHES total of 12 "
S - 7 INCHES total of 14 "
M -7 INCHES total of 14 "
L - 8 INCHES total of 16 "
XL- 8 INCHES total of 16 "
measure the front panel 1st
and the back panel 2nd, your total should be double your armhole depth ( for me it was 14 inches )
so basically you are going to continue the sedge stitch from one stitch marker to the other and continue that with no increase for as many rows as you would like. do this on the other side of your cardigan also
XS - 16-17 inches
S - 17-18 inches
M -17 - 18 inches
L - 18- 19 inches
XL- 18- 19 inches
here's what you should have so far
2 front panels ,1 back panel & 2 sleeve panels
now we need to fold our cardigan so it looks like an actual cardigan and we are going to stitch up the open sides with a really simple stitch. so where you see the green lines that's how you would stitch the cardigan up from the bottom to the top.
Now we are basically finished unless you wanted to add pockets and go around the neckline of the cardigan then continue following these steps
Neckline / shaping
in order to make my cardigan fit a little better i went around the whole cardigan to help create a certain shape, so basically i attach the yarn to the bottom front panel and continued the sedge stitch around to the other bottom front panel , i did this a total of 4 x which added about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to the front panels of the cardigan.
Pockets
6. sew the pocket's on the cardigan leaving the top open
We are officially finished with this super easy cardigan guy's , thank you so much for following my patterns i really appreciate it !!! please like , comment, subscribe & share my free blog patterns it really helps me out !! See you in the next tutorial
Click here
Design Process
I get a lot of comments on my YouTube channel asking why did i make 2 panels instead of crocheting in a round & stuff like that, which is fine but i just don't enjoy crocheting in rounds so in an attempt to compromise & give my subscribers what they ask for, i decided to use the technique of an all-in-one cardigan with minimal sewing. And i LOVE it lol its so easy you can even use whatever stitch pattern you would like, just make sure you make a stitch gauge to get the right size. Basically we will be creating a back panel, 2 front panels & 2 sleeve panels on both sides, then we will stitch up the open sides and ass pockets for extra cuteness.
Sizing
S- bust 34"
M- bust 38"
L- bust 42"
XL- bust 46"
length is COMPLETELY up to you just make sure the 2 front panels match the back panel in length & width. I made my cardigan about 24-25 inches long.
* this cardigan is designed to be very fitted to the body, but it can also be made with a bit of ease & you can add ease by adding 2-4 inches to your original measurement and creating your pattern from there. exampe: 16 inches + 2 inches (ease) = 18 inches x 3= 54 chs to start the back panel
Stitch gauge
my gauge of HDC was = 3 sts per inch
so i used 3 as my # to multiply to find my size, i also used the https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/woman-size
size chart to find my size shoulder to shoulder measurement , which was 14 1/2 to 15 inches so i multiplied 15 by 3 and got 45 . So my foundation chain to start the back panel was 45 chs.
About the yarn
I used Red Heart "with love" it's a weight 4 yarn and it's SUPER soft, light weighht and perfect for a cardigan the recommended hook is a 6.5 K hook each skein is 6 oz/ 170 g and 315 yards/ 288 m.
it's 100% premium acrylic fiber. It is also machine washable and you can put it in the dryer as well
* however you can also hand wash and dry it to keep your cardigan nice looking*
Materials
weight 4 worsted yarn ( with love red heart yarn )
J/10 6 mm hook
sewing needle
measuring tape
stitch markers
- place 1 hdc, 1 dc in the 2nd ch from the hook
- *skip next 2 sts
- place 1 sc,1 hdc, 1 dc in next stitch*
- rep from * to * until 2 sts are left
- skip next st, sc in last st
GAUGE:
4 stitches & 2 rows = 1″
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
Pattern:
- make a slip knot
- ch XS 42, S 45, M 48, L 51, XL 51-54 ( sizes FOR A TIGHT FIT )
6. skip next st and sc into last st
7. ch1 ,turn repeat step #4 - 6 for the complete pattern ( you can do as many rows as you like) i stopped when my back panel reached 24-25 inches in length.
this is what you should have so far, a panel as wide and long as you want it to be
XS 7-8 '' panels
S 7-8 '' panels
M 8-9 '' panels
L 9 - 10'' panels
XL 10- 11'' panels
Sleeves
XS - 6 INCHES total of 12 "
S - 7 INCHES total of 14 "
M -7 INCHES total of 14 "
L - 8 INCHES total of 16 "
XL- 8 INCHES total of 16 "
so basically you are going to continue the sedge stitch from one stitch marker to the other and continue that with no increase for as many rows as you would like. do this on the other side of your cardigan also
XS - 16-17 inches
S - 17-18 inches
M -17 - 18 inches
L - 18- 19 inches
XL- 18- 19 inches
now we need to fold our cardigan so it looks like an actual cardigan and we are going to stitch up the open sides with a really simple stitch. so where you see the green lines that's how you would stitch the cardigan up from the bottom to the top.
Now we are basically finished unless you wanted to add pockets and go around the neckline of the cardigan then continue following these steps
Neckline / shaping
in order to make my cardigan fit a little better i went around the whole cardigan to help create a certain shape, so basically i attach the yarn to the bottom front panel and continued the sedge stitch around to the other bottom front panel , i did this a total of 4 x which added about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to the front panels of the cardigan.
Pockets
- my pockets were 5'' x 5'' so i multiplied 5 by 3 and got 15
- so i chained 15
- hdc,dc into the 2nd ch from hook, * sk 2 spaces, 1sc,1hdc,1dc in next st* rep from * to *, sk next st sc into last
- repeat this pattern until you have 5 '' in length for you pocket
- then we are going to place 4 st markers in each corner of the pocket to help it stay in place while we sew it to the cardigan
6. sew the pocket's on the cardigan leaving the top open
We are officially finished with this super easy cardigan guy's , thank you so much for following my patterns i really appreciate it !!! please like , comment, subscribe & share my free blog patterns it really helps me out !! See you in the next tutorial
Video tutorial on my YouTube channel
Easy Adjustable Cardigan
Hey guy's !! so today i'm showing you how i made this super easy adjustable length cardigan. It has a open stitch pattern called the " sedge stitch" and it's really breath able and certainly NOT meant to keep you warn outside in the winter weather, unless you live on the west coast i guess lol. Anyway this cardigan is made in one whole piece and just needs to be stitched up the sides. SUPER EASY.
Design Process
I get a lot of comments on my YouTube channel asking why did i make 2 panels instead of crocheting in a round & stuff like that, which is fine but i just don't enjoy crocheting in rounds so in an attempt to compromise & give my subscribers what they ask for, i decided to use the technique of an all-in-one cardigan with minimal sewing. And i LOVE it lol its so easy you can even use whatever stitch pattern you would like, just make sure you make a stitch gauge to get the right size. Basically we will be creating a back panel, 2 front panels & 2 sleeve panels on both sides, then we will stitch up the open sides and ass pockets for extra cuteness.
Sizing
XS- bust 30"
S- bust 34"
M- bust 38"
L- bust 42"
XL- bust 46"
length is COMPLETELY up to you just make sure the 2 front panels match the back panel in length & width. I made my cardigan about 24-25 inches long.
* this cardigan is designed to be very fitted to the body, but it can also be made with a bit of ease & you can add ease by adding 2-4 inches to your original measurement and creating your pattern from there. exampe: 16 inches + 2 inches (ease) = 18 inches x 3= 54 chs to start the back panel
Stitch gauge
my gauge of HDC was = 3 sts per inch
so i used 3 as my # to multiply to find my size, i also used the https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/woman-size
size chart to find my size shoulder to shoulder measurement , which was 14 1/2 to 15 inches so i multiplied 15 by 3 and got 45 . So my foundation chain to start the back panel was 45 chs.
sedge stitch pattern
Multiple of 3+1
3. hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and all the way to the end of the ch
4. ch 1, place 1 hdc & 1 dc into the 1st st
5.skip 2 sts , place 1 sc, 1hdc, 1 dc into the next st
repeat step # 5 until there are 2 sts left
6. skip next st and sc into last st
7. ch1 ,turn repeat step #4 - 6 for the complete pattern ( you can do as many rows as you like) i stopped when my back panel reached 24-25 inches in length.
this is what you should have so far, a panel as wide and long as you want it to be
Next we need to find the middle of our work by folding the panel length wise and place a st marker in the very middle (make sure you count your sts so your front panels will be even)
you will now need to continue the sedge stitch from the top of your back panel where your yarn should still be connected across to where the st marker is placed, repeat that row for as many rows as you would like i did around 46-47 rows for each front panel and i also had about 8 "sedge stitch clusters" measuring 8 inches across
XS 7-8 '' panels
S 7-8 '' panels
M 8-9 '' panels
L 9 - 10'' panels
XL 10- 11'' panels
this is pretty much what you should have now if you successfully completed a back panel and two front panels
Sleeves
lay out the front panels and back panel so we can work on the sleeve panels
find the shoulder seam ( where you started making the front panel) and place a st marker there, then measure from the shoulder seam to where your armhole will stop
XS - 6 INCHES total of 12 "
S - 7 INCHES total of 14 "
M -7 INCHES total of 14 "
L - 8 INCHES total of 16 "
XL- 8 INCHES total of 16 "
measure the front panel 1st
and the back panel 2nd, your total should be double your armhole depth ( for me it was 14 inches )
so basically you are going to continue the sedge stitch from one stitch marker to the other and continue that with no increase for as many rows as you would like. do this on the other side of your cardigan also
XS - 16-17 inches
S - 17-18 inches
M -17 - 18 inches
L - 18- 19 inches
XL- 18- 19 inches
here's what you should have so far
2 front panels ,1 back panel & 2 sleeve panels
now we need to fold our cardigan so it looks like an actual cardigan and we are going to stitch up the open sides with a really simple stitch. so where you see the green lines that's how you would stitch the cardigan up from the bottom to the top.
Now we are basically finished unless you wanted to add pockets and go around the neckline of the cardigan then continue following these steps
Neckline / shaping
in order to make my cardigan fit a little better i went around the whole cardigan to help create a certain shape, so basically i attach the yarn to the bottom front panel and continued the sedge stitch around to the other bottom front panel , i did this a total of 4 x which added about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to the front panels of the cardigan.
Pockets
6. sew the pocket's on the cardigan leaving the top open
We are officially finished with this super easy cardigan guy's , thank you so much for following my patterns i really appreciate it !!! please like , comment, subscribe & share my free blog patterns it really helps me out !! See you in the next tutorial
Click here
Design Process
I get a lot of comments on my YouTube channel asking why did i make 2 panels instead of crocheting in a round & stuff like that, which is fine but i just don't enjoy crocheting in rounds so in an attempt to compromise & give my subscribers what they ask for, i decided to use the technique of an all-in-one cardigan with minimal sewing. And i LOVE it lol its so easy you can even use whatever stitch pattern you would like, just make sure you make a stitch gauge to get the right size. Basically we will be creating a back panel, 2 front panels & 2 sleeve panels on both sides, then we will stitch up the open sides and ass pockets for extra cuteness.
Sizing
S- bust 34"
M- bust 38"
L- bust 42"
XL- bust 46"
length is COMPLETELY up to you just make sure the 2 front panels match the back panel in length & width. I made my cardigan about 24-25 inches long.
* this cardigan is designed to be very fitted to the body, but it can also be made with a bit of ease & you can add ease by adding 2-4 inches to your original measurement and creating your pattern from there. exampe: 16 inches + 2 inches (ease) = 18 inches x 3= 54 chs to start the back panel
Stitch gauge
my gauge of HDC was = 3 sts per inch
so i used 3 as my # to multiply to find my size, i also used the https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/woman-size
size chart to find my size shoulder to shoulder measurement , which was 14 1/2 to 15 inches so i multiplied 15 by 3 and got 45 . So my foundation chain to start the back panel was 45 chs.
About the yarn
I used Red Heart "with love" it's a weight 4 yarn and it's SUPER soft, light weighht and perfect for a cardigan the recommended hook is a 6.5 K hook each skein is 6 oz/ 170 g and 315 yards/ 288 m.
it's 100% premium acrylic fiber. It is also machine washable and you can put it in the dryer as well
* however you can also hand wash and dry it to keep your cardigan nice looking*
Materials
weight 4 worsted yarn ( with love red heart yarn )
J/10 6 mm hook
sewing needle
measuring tape
stitch markers
- place 1 hdc, 1 dc in the 2nd ch from the hook
- *skip next 2 sts
- place 1 sc,1 hdc, 1 dc in next stitch*
- rep from * to * until 2 sts are left
- skip next st, sc in last st
GAUGE:
4 stitches & 2 rows = 1″
ABBREVIATIONS:
ch – chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
Pattern:
- make a slip knot
- ch XS 42, S 45, M 48, L 51, XL 51-54 ( sizes FOR A TIGHT FIT )
6. skip next st and sc into last st
7. ch1 ,turn repeat step #4 - 6 for the complete pattern ( you can do as many rows as you like) i stopped when my back panel reached 24-25 inches in length.
this is what you should have so far, a panel as wide and long as you want it to be
XS 7-8 '' panels
S 7-8 '' panels
M 8-9 '' panels
L 9 - 10'' panels
XL 10- 11'' panels
Sleeves
XS - 6 INCHES total of 12 "
S - 7 INCHES total of 14 "
M -7 INCHES total of 14 "
L - 8 INCHES total of 16 "
XL- 8 INCHES total of 16 "
so basically you are going to continue the sedge stitch from one stitch marker to the other and continue that with no increase for as many rows as you would like. do this on the other side of your cardigan also
XS - 16-17 inches
S - 17-18 inches
M -17 - 18 inches
L - 18- 19 inches
XL- 18- 19 inches
now we need to fold our cardigan so it looks like an actual cardigan and we are going to stitch up the open sides with a really simple stitch. so where you see the green lines that's how you would stitch the cardigan up from the bottom to the top.
Now we are basically finished unless you wanted to add pockets and go around the neckline of the cardigan then continue following these steps
Neckline / shaping
in order to make my cardigan fit a little better i went around the whole cardigan to help create a certain shape, so basically i attach the yarn to the bottom front panel and continued the sedge stitch around to the other bottom front panel , i did this a total of 4 x which added about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to the front panels of the cardigan.
Pockets
- my pockets were 5'' x 5'' so i multiplied 5 by 3 and got 15
- so i chained 15
- hdc,dc into the 2nd ch from hook, * sk 2 spaces, 1sc,1hdc,1dc in next st* rep from * to *, sk next st sc into last
- repeat this pattern until you have 5 '' in length for you pocket
- then we are going to place 4 st markers in each corner of the pocket to help it stay in place while we sew it to the cardigan
6. sew the pocket's on the cardigan leaving the top open
We are officially finished with this super easy cardigan guy's , thank you so much for following my patterns i really appreciate it !!! please like , comment, subscribe & share my free blog patterns it really helps me out !! See you in the next tutorial
Video tutorial on my YouTube channel
Hey guy's , so this is my very 1st blog post EVER in my entire life, and i will admit i am not the best blogger and my grammar is horrible at times so please bare with me lol. Also please excuse my photography skills i am definitely working on my aesthetic. So anyway enough of me explaining myself let's get to the design of the sweater.
DESIGN PROCESS
So as i was scrolling through instagram and i came across one of my FAVORITE boutiques called @Gia_Monae and i saw a really cute sweater so i thought why not recreate it in my own way. So that's exactly what i did, this sweater is meant to be off the shoulder so i could layer a really cute bralette under it. I also wanted it to be over sized with SUPER long sleeves
+ have the ability to wear it cropped ( because i LOVE LOVE LOOOOVEEE high waisted pants )so i added a drawstring... LOL that may seem like a lot for one sweater but it totally worked.
+ have the ability to wear it cropped ( because i LOVE LOVE LOOOOVEEE high waisted pants )so i added a drawstring... LOL that may seem like a lot for one sweater but it totally worked.
ABOUT THE YARN
I used Red Heart "with love" it's a weight 4 yarn and it's SUPER soft, light weight and perfect for a sweater. The recommended hook is a 6.5 K hook each skein is 6 oz/ 170 g and 315 yards/ 288 m.
it's 100% premium acrylic fiber. It is also machine washable and you can put it in the dryer as well
* however you can also hand wash and dry it to keep your sweater nice looking*
Materials Needed:
at least 3 skeins weight 4 yarn ( for size XS-S) 3-4 skeins (for sizes M-L) 4-5 skeins ( XL-2XL)
To purchase yarn : where to purchase yarn
To purchase yarn : where to purchase yarn
6.5 mm & 5 mm crochet hooks
scissors
yarn needle to sew sweater together & to weave in the ends.
Sizes:
XS-S
M
L
XL-2X
Stitches used:
*ch st - chain stitch
*hdc - half double crochet
*sc - single crochet
*sl st - slip stitch
*sk- skip
*/** - these are to let you know that the pattern is repeating
stitch gauge 12 sts = 4 inches
8 rows = 4 inches
ch 1 after every row ( doesn't count as a stitch)
PATTERN:
Make a slip knot
CH 96(XS-S),108 (M),111(XL),114 (2XL)+ 1 ( for turning ch)
Row 1: hdc into 2nd ch from the hook and across all stitches
repeat for 4 more rows ( 5 rows total )
Row 6: ch 1 , hdc into 1st st , ch 1 , *sk 1 st, hdc in next st**. repeat from * to ** until there are 2 sts left ,ch 1, sk 1 st and hdc in the last st. ( if your st count is off or different just place a mesh stitch across every st)
row 1 pictured rows 1-6 pictured
XS-S
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-21 ( only 3 rows hdc )
GO TO NECK SHAPING
M
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-23: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 24: repeat row 6 (mesh)
GO TO NECK SHAPINING
EDIT:
YOU CAN DECIDE HOW WIDE YOUR SWEATER WILL BE THIS IS JUST A GUESSTAMATION OF HOW MANY ROWS SHOULD BE DONE
L
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-23: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 24: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 25-26: only 2 hdc rows
XL-2XL
rows 7-11: repeat row 1(hdc)
row 12: repeat row 5 (mesh)
rows 13-17: (hdc)
row 18: (mesh)
rows 19-23: (hdc)
row 24: (mesh)
rows 25-29: (hdc)
XL-2XL
rows 7-11: repeat row 1(hdc)
row 12: repeat row 5 (mesh)
rows 13-17: (hdc)
row 18: (mesh)
rows 19-23: (hdc)
row 24: (mesh)
rows 25-29: (hdc)
This is what you should have by this point the left side of the sweater is complete
now we are going to create the neck hole
NECK SHAPING
XS-S
row 22: ch 1 , turn hdc across 24 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 23 sts
this is where the sweater starts to look like a poncho type of thing ... lol
row 23: ch 1, turn, hdc across every st (96 sts)
M & L will look different because of the pattern rows
row 24: ch1, hdc across every stitch (hdc)
row 25: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 26-30: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 31: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 32-36: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 37: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 38-42: repeat row 1 (hdc)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM
M
row 25: turn hdc across 29 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 28 sts
rows 26-29: ch 1, turn , hdc across every st (105 sts)
row 30: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 31-35: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 36: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 37-41: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 42: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 43-47: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 48: repeat row 6 (mesh)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM
L
row 27: turn hdc across 30 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 30 sts
rows 28-29: ch 1, turn, hdc across every st (108 sts)
row 30: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 31-35: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 36: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 37-41: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 42: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 43-47: repeat row 1 ( hdc)
row 48: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 49- 51: repeat row 1 (hdc)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM XL-2XL
row 30: turn hdc across 33 sts, ch 48 sts, sk 48 sts, hdc across the next 33 sts
rows 31-35: (hdc)
row 36: (mesh)
rows 37-41: (hdc)
row 42: (mesh)
rows 43-47: (hdc)
row 48: (mesh)
rows 49-53: (hdc)
row 54: (mesh)
rows 55-58 (4 hdc rows)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM XL-2XL
row 30: turn hdc across 33 sts, ch 48 sts, sk 48 sts, hdc across the next 33 sts
rows 31-35: (hdc)
row 36: (mesh)
rows 37-41: (hdc)
row 42: (mesh)
rows 43-47: (hdc)
row 48: (mesh)
rows 49-53: (hdc)
row 54: (mesh)
rows 55-58 (4 hdc rows)
SIDE SEAM
XS-S mark of 27 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 42 sts for the armhole
M mark of 33 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 39 sts for the armhole
L mark of 36 spaces from the front edge of your work and mark 36 spaces from the back edge of your work leaving 36
sts for the armhole
XL-2XL mark off 39 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 36 sts for the armhole
sts for the armhole
XL-2XL mark off 39 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 36 sts for the armhole
thread yarn needle and st both sides of your sweater from the bottom edge to the armhole ( don't stitch the whole side up make sure you leave a armhole)
SLEEVE
ch a chain as long as you want it to be , i chained 45 so my sleeve was about 15 inches long and my sleeve cuff was about 6 inches so my sleeves were pretty long and really wide so i suggest that you adjust your sleeve to the length and width that you want . Remember that your stitch gauge is roughly 3 sts per inch so however long you want your sleeve in inches multiply that number by 3 . * to follow the pattern i did continue below.
PATTERN CONTINUED
CH 45 + 1
hdc into the 2nd ch from the hook , hdc across every st , ch1 , turn
row 1-5: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 6: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-18: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 19 :repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 20-24: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 25: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 26-30: repeat row 1 (hdc)
this is what my sleeve looked like REMEMBER i said i made my sleeve SUPER long and Super wide so if you don't want yours to look that way adjust your sleeve to your desire.
\
Next we are going to make the sleeve cuff or whatever you call it ...lol
make a slip knot , chain 18 + 1 ( for turning ch )
sc in the 2nd ch from the hook , and every st across
row 1: ch 1 , turn sc in the back loops of every st across
XS-S
rows 2-30 (up to 36 rows for a S ) repeat row 1
M
rows 2-33 repeat row 1
L
rows 2-36 repeat row 1
it should look similar to this ....
now we are going to sew the sleeve cuff to the sleeve, i used some yarn to attach the 2 pieces together ... lol i never have stitch markers ... but anyway here's what it should look like and you just sew it together
Once we have completed that part we are almost finished YAY !!!! lol , but we just have to attach the sleeve to the sweater ( in the picture my sleeve wasn't sewed together yet so don't mind that part) * ALSO WATCH MY YOUTUBE VIDEO SO YOU CAN SEE HOW I SEW THE SLEEVE ON I COULDN'T GET A USABLE PICTURE OF THE PROCESS)
Now we are basically finished except for the neck and shoulder area, so like i said in the beginning i designed this sweater to be SUPER baggy and big plus off the shoulder so the middle needs a little TLC to make it cute and comfy.
so attach the yarn at which ever side you want to be the BACK , ch 1 , hdc in the same st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st ** repeat from * to ** all the way around, then slip st
In total i did 4 rows of mesh st around the shoulder and neck hole part of the sweater, you are free to do more or less rows adjust it to your style like i said i wanted mine big. So yeah we are finished you just need to weave your ends in and turn your sweater right side out and BOOM !!!! you have a really cute trendy off the shoulder sweater. Thank you for visiting my blog and i hope to see you next time ... bye !!!
*OPTIONAL*
I CHAINED ABOUT 200 CHS AND THREADED IT THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE SWEATER TO CREATE A DRAWSTRING EFFECT TO MAKE THE SWEATER CROPPED.
here's a quick 10 minute bralette i made just to show how it would look with a bralette
drawstring to make it cropped
cropped back picture
no crop back picture
Leave comments down below and let me know what you think, and share your sweater with me if you make it
here's the link to the video ... enjoy !!!!!
Hey guy's , so this is my very 1st blog post EVER in my entire life, and i will admit i am not the best blogger and my grammar is horrible at times so please bare with me lol. Also please excuse my photography skills i am definitely working on my aesthetic. So anyway enough of me explaining myself let's get to the design of the sweater.
DESIGN PROCESS
So as i was scrolling through instagram and i came across one of my FAVORITE boutiques called @Gia_Monae and i saw a really cute sweater so i thought why not recreate it in my own way. So that's exactly what i did, this sweater is meant to be off the shoulder so i could layer a really cute bralette under it. I also wanted it to be over sized with SUPER long sleeves
+ have the ability to wear it cropped ( because i LOVE LOVE LOOOOVEEE high waisted pants )so i added a drawstring... LOL that may seem like a lot for one sweater but it totally worked.
+ have the ability to wear it cropped ( because i LOVE LOVE LOOOOVEEE high waisted pants )so i added a drawstring... LOL that may seem like a lot for one sweater but it totally worked.
ABOUT THE YARN
I used Red Heart "with love" it's a weight 4 yarn and it's SUPER soft, light weight and perfect for a sweater. The recommended hook is a 6.5 K hook each skein is 6 oz/ 170 g and 315 yards/ 288 m.
it's 100% premium acrylic fiber. It is also machine washable and you can put it in the dryer as well
* however you can also hand wash and dry it to keep your sweater nice looking*
Materials Needed:
at least 3 skeins weight 4 yarn ( for size XS-S) 3-4 skeins (for sizes M-L) 4-5 skeins ( XL-2XL)
To purchase yarn : where to purchase yarn
To purchase yarn : where to purchase yarn
6.5 mm & 5 mm crochet hooks
scissors
yarn needle to sew sweater together & to weave in the ends.
Sizes:
XS-S
M
L
XL-2X
Stitches used:
*ch st - chain stitch
*hdc - half double crochet
*sc - single crochet
*sl st - slip stitch
*sk- skip
*/** - these are to let you know that the pattern is repeating
stitch gauge 12 sts = 4 inches
8 rows = 4 inches
ch 1 after every row ( doesn't count as a stitch)
PATTERN:
Make a slip knot
CH 96(XS-S),108 (M),111(XL),114 (2XL)+ 1 ( for turning ch)
Row 1: hdc into 2nd ch from the hook and across all stitches
repeat for 4 more rows ( 5 rows total )
Row 6: ch 1 , hdc into 1st st , ch 1 , *sk 1 st, hdc in next st**. repeat from * to ** until there are 2 sts left ,ch 1, sk 1 st and hdc in the last st. ( if your st count is off or different just place a mesh stitch across every st)
row 1 pictured rows 1-6 pictured
XS-S
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-21 ( only 3 rows hdc )
GO TO NECK SHAPING
M
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-23: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 24: repeat row 6 (mesh)
GO TO NECK SHAPINING
EDIT:
YOU CAN DECIDE HOW WIDE YOUR SWEATER WILL BE THIS IS JUST A GUESSTAMATION OF HOW MANY ROWS SHOULD BE DONE
L
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-17: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 18: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 19-23: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 24: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 25-26: only 2 hdc rows
XL-2XL
rows 7-11: repeat row 1(hdc)
row 12: repeat row 5 (mesh)
rows 13-17: (hdc)
row 18: (mesh)
rows 19-23: (hdc)
row 24: (mesh)
rows 25-29: (hdc)
XL-2XL
rows 7-11: repeat row 1(hdc)
row 12: repeat row 5 (mesh)
rows 13-17: (hdc)
row 18: (mesh)
rows 19-23: (hdc)
row 24: (mesh)
rows 25-29: (hdc)
This is what you should have by this point the left side of the sweater is complete
now we are going to create the neck hole
NECK SHAPING
XS-S
row 22: ch 1 , turn hdc across 24 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 23 sts
this is where the sweater starts to look like a poncho type of thing ... lol
row 23: ch 1, turn, hdc across every st (96 sts)
M & L will look different because of the pattern rows
row 24: ch1, hdc across every stitch (hdc)
row 25: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 26-30: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 31: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 32-36: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 37: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 38-42: repeat row 1 (hdc)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM
M
row 25: turn hdc across 29 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 28 sts
rows 26-29: ch 1, turn , hdc across every st (105 sts)
row 30: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 31-35: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 36: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 37-41: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 42: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 43-47: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 48: repeat row 6 (mesh)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM
L
row 27: turn hdc across 30 sts , ch 48 , sk 48 sts ,hdc into next st and next 30 sts
rows 28-29: ch 1, turn, hdc across every st (108 sts)
row 30: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 31-35: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 36: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 37-41: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 42: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 43-47: repeat row 1 ( hdc)
row 48: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 49- 51: repeat row 1 (hdc)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM XL-2XL
row 30: turn hdc across 33 sts, ch 48 sts, sk 48 sts, hdc across the next 33 sts
rows 31-35: (hdc)
row 36: (mesh)
rows 37-41: (hdc)
row 42: (mesh)
rows 43-47: (hdc)
row 48: (mesh)
rows 49-53: (hdc)
row 54: (mesh)
rows 55-58 (4 hdc rows)
MOVE TO SIDE SEAM XL-2XL
row 30: turn hdc across 33 sts, ch 48 sts, sk 48 sts, hdc across the next 33 sts
rows 31-35: (hdc)
row 36: (mesh)
rows 37-41: (hdc)
row 42: (mesh)
rows 43-47: (hdc)
row 48: (mesh)
rows 49-53: (hdc)
row 54: (mesh)
rows 55-58 (4 hdc rows)
SIDE SEAM
XS-S mark of 27 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 42 sts for the armhole
M mark of 33 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 39 sts for the armhole
L mark of 36 spaces from the front edge of your work and mark 36 spaces from the back edge of your work leaving 36
sts for the armhole
XL-2XL mark off 39 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 36 sts for the armhole
sts for the armhole
XL-2XL mark off 39 spaces from each edge of your work leaving 36 sts for the armhole
thread yarn needle and st both sides of your sweater from the bottom edge to the armhole ( don't stitch the whole side up make sure you leave a armhole)
SLEEVE
ch a chain as long as you want it to be , i chained 45 so my sleeve was about 15 inches long and my sleeve cuff was about 6 inches so my sleeves were pretty long and really wide so i suggest that you adjust your sleeve to the length and width that you want . Remember that your stitch gauge is roughly 3 sts per inch so however long you want your sleeve in inches multiply that number by 3 . * to follow the pattern i did continue below.
PATTERN CONTINUED
CH 45 + 1
hdc into the 2nd ch from the hook , hdc across every st , ch1 , turn
row 1-5: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 6: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 7-11: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 12: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 13-18: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 19 :repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 20-24: repeat row 1 (hdc)
row 25: repeat row 6 (mesh)
rows 26-30: repeat row 1 (hdc)
this is what my sleeve looked like REMEMBER i said i made my sleeve SUPER long and Super wide so if you don't want yours to look that way adjust your sleeve to your desire.
\
Next we are going to make the sleeve cuff or whatever you call it ...lol
make a slip knot , chain 18 + 1 ( for turning ch )
sc in the 2nd ch from the hook , and every st across
row 1: ch 1 , turn sc in the back loops of every st across
XS-S
rows 2-30 (up to 36 rows for a S ) repeat row 1
M
rows 2-33 repeat row 1
L
rows 2-36 repeat row 1
it should look similar to this ....
now we are going to sew the sleeve cuff to the sleeve, i used some yarn to attach the 2 pieces together ... lol i never have stitch markers ... but anyway here's what it should look like and you just sew it together
Once we have completed that part we are almost finished YAY !!!! lol , but we just have to attach the sleeve to the sweater ( in the picture my sleeve wasn't sewed together yet so don't mind that part) * ALSO WATCH MY YOUTUBE VIDEO SO YOU CAN SEE HOW I SEW THE SLEEVE ON I COULDN'T GET A USABLE PICTURE OF THE PROCESS)
Now we are basically finished except for the neck and shoulder area, so like i said in the beginning i designed this sweater to be SUPER baggy and big plus off the shoulder so the middle needs a little TLC to make it cute and comfy.
so attach the yarn at which ever side you want to be the BACK , ch 1 , hdc in the same st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc in the next st ** repeat from * to ** all the way around, then slip st
In total i did 4 rows of mesh st around the shoulder and neck hole part of the sweater, you are free to do more or less rows adjust it to your style like i said i wanted mine big. So yeah we are finished you just need to weave your ends in and turn your sweater right side out and BOOM !!!! you have a really cute trendy off the shoulder sweater. Thank you for visiting my blog and i hope to see you next time ... bye !!!
*OPTIONAL*
I CHAINED ABOUT 200 CHS AND THREADED IT THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE SWEATER TO CREATE A DRAWSTRING EFFECT TO MAKE THE SWEATER CROPPED.
here's a quick 10 minute bralette i made just to show how it would look with a bralette
drawstring to make it cropped
cropped back picture
no crop back picture
Leave comments down below and let me know what you think, and share your sweater with me if you make it
here's the link to the video ... enjoy !!!!!
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